THE PORTUGUESE WAY

A beautiful spring time scene

As part of my camino training walks, I walked 12miles to Mafra and back. Mafra is home to the National Palace and the lone Indian restaurant in the area. A lot of the people I came across were kind of assholes there, a stark contrast to Ericeira. I am told they are proud and kind of resent the recent tourist surge of its neighbor Ericeira. 

Cesar gave me his pilgrim scallop shell that he got from his grandfather. His grandfather was a local fisherman. The tradition is that when a pilgrim finally made it to Santiago, they would return home with a shell to prove they had completed the journey. It is quite a generous gift from Cesar. 

Benny is the local security system for the Airbnb I am staying. He is on at a moments notice, barking up a storm from his little body. He definitely doesn't like me. That said, Cesar has entrusted me with his dear dog and now lets me take him for walks around the neighborhood. When this happens, Benny becomes my best friend wagging his tale and acting demurely. But as soon as we return and I put him back on his leash at his dog sentry outpost, he treats me like I am up to no good! 

Cesar's rendition of Earth and Sea...art of his on the Airbnb property

Cesar, my Airbnb host, uses the area that has the two cottages for rental, as a canvas for his art. Here is a waterfall he created (now fish live here) that he dedicates to his wife, Maria.

Maria told me it is an Easter tradition to go down in the morning for low tide to harvest and then eat them that day. The locals eat them boiled or by flame. Japonese buy them here and eat them raw. In fact, i dare say i have eaten sea urchin sushi. 

These sea urchins are local fare. At low tide, folks go out to harvest them. 

My other Airbnb Host Cesar was in the family restaurant business for many years in Ericeira. He cooks up a mean "almoco" or lunch, the main meal of the day. Here is boiled fish and cabbage, typical food to the area. Cesar has been warmly welcoming to me for which I am grateful.

Maria has been a wonderful hostess to me. She and her husband Cesar are multi-generation locals to the area, and have been doing Airbnb here since 2014. They have two cottages on their property they rent out. Here is the posting (you have to copy and paste into the URL to view): https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3140936?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=61e4050c-2d52-447b-823f-d1639b68d09d https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3140936?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=61e4050c-2d52-447b-823f-d1639b68d09d https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3140936?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=61e4050c-2d52-447b-823f-d1639b68d09d This is Maria after cleaning my place for 2.5 hours! To be honest, I am embarrassed it took her 2.5 hours to clean a mess I created over three weeks :-(

As i rounded the corner on this street, this dog leaped out barking. I jumped back startled! 

I keep coming across these tiled murals on the side of residences or buildings. They tell of the places rich history.

There is a hole in this boulder near the water

Great beach front town. Lots of wind. The horizon inland is dotted with large scale wind turbines. I could see Peniche off in the distance. I find it ironic that Santa Cruz CA shares a surfing heritage with this town. 

My journey to Santa Cruz 20miles north of where I am staying in Ericeira, started by getting on a bus in Ericeira. I had heard about Santa Cruz as a cheaper version of Ericeira. After two bus rides, i got off at Campotec which is still 6miles from Santa Cruz. So i walked. Many of the towns along the way are sleepy. Less people speak English. I finally made it to Santa Cruz. I was surprised to come across this surfing competition with surfers from around the world.

I had to pick up the credentiales to walk the camino at the only place in Lisbon, SE Cathedral. This allows Dave (who I am doing walk with) and i to get stamps along the route to verify we did the walk, as a momento after the walk, and getting us pilgrim price discounts along the way

I was told women hate them for high heels. I asked why the city doesnt put proper safe sidewalks. She said something like "uniquely Lisbon", as if Lisbons brand identity is more important than people slipping and falling. 

I traveled a 90min bus ride from Ericeira to Lisbon to meet with a person working on my visa. Once in Lisbon, i walked 5miles from the bus station to SE Cathedral to pick up my camino pilgrim credentiales. The rain made the walk on these stones dangerously slippery.

Surfing areas all along  this coast

A view of Foz do Lazardo (mouth of the Lazardo river). Great walking trails along the coast

I found Portugals lone Vippassana Buddhist monastery not far from where I am staying 

When I think of this area, wind comes to mind. The average wind speed is 13mph. There are large scale wind turbines dotting the horizon, perched on top little mountain tops. This is a toy rendition in someones yard

A vast portion of the coast area is within the Surfers Preserve

When i think of this place, i think going up or going down. No flat...

These small fishing boats launch right off the beach

This hotel is a good landmark for the town. The town is known to be a traditional fishing village. Also known for surfing, there is a fair amount of tourism due to proximity to Lisbon. It took a 1.5hr (6 Euro) bus ride to get here from Lisbon. 

Walked 2km to beach from my Airbnb. Met some bikers who gave me the layout where to walk. Took a right at the beach, walked toward Ericiera. These hills are going to kill my quads! 

Milk goat roaming a side road in this mountainous area

My first day after arrival, exploring town. Very mountainous area. People are really friendly. Windy and cool, between 45 and 60degrees.

After spending night in Philly due to storm and canceled flight, arrived in Lisbon. A nice AA employee upgraded me for free to Premium Economy which made the flight much better.